Policy, Advocacy, and Activism in Sustainable Fashion
The fashion industry must assume a pivotal role in driving policy change, addressing critical issues, and actively engaging in activism to tackle the social, economic, and environmental challenges. Solutions must not only be impactful but also usher in systemic change by strategically targeting major players in the fast fashion arena and influential governmental leaders capable of creating substantial change. The urgency for a sustainable fashion industry has never been more important. Now, more than ever, we must demand for fair labor practices, environmental sustainability, and responsible sourcing of clothing materials. This blog article will delve into governmental policy, advocacy, and activism within the fashion industry and how we can take action today.
Fashion Policy for a Sustainable Fashion Industry
The industry needs to take immediate action to tackle the negative impact it has on people and the planet. As it stands, fast fashion brands have only taken voluntary action towards sustainable and ethical practices in their supply chain. Yet, transformative change will not come from profit-driven brands setting their benchmarks with little or no accountability. Fashion policy from governments across the globe is pivotal in transforming the industry. Major fashion brands must be made to implement and enforce strict business regulations across their entire supply chain to ensure sustainable and ethical practices. Such regulations could include guidelines for fair wages, safe working conditions, and environmentally sustainable production methods.
Regulations play a crucial role in reaching systemic change within the fashion industry by targeting the root causes of issues. This makes it essential to rethink and reshape the current conventional fashion systems and to create innovative fashion policies that serve as catalysts for transformation. One significant hurdle in the path towards systemic change is the resistance from fast fashion brands that have thrived under the current regulatory gaps. These brands are often resistant to collective change given stringent regulations would require them to reassess their business models. Adopting more sustainable and ethical practices is also more expensive and complicated to handle. Brands are also used to a lack of comprehensive policies, allowing them to exploit loopholes and focus on the mass production of fast fashion trends. Major fast fashion brands need to be held accountable for becoming responsible agents of change. Sustainable fashion action could tackle this by creating new regulations, working to close existing loopholes, and strengthening enforcement mechanisms. In the quest for systemic change, it is crucial to view regulations not as impediments but as essential tools for reshaping the fashion landscape.
Current Sustainable Fashion Policy in the Industry
In a time marked by increasing exploitation of workers, spiking costs for basic goods, and a worsening climate crisis, the fashion industry must be questioned and confronted with direct action. Recognizing the need for profound change, lawmakers spearheaded two landmark initiatives—the Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, also known as The Fashion Act, and The Fashioning Accountability and Building Real Institutional Change Act, known as The FABRIC Act. If passed, these bills have the potential to not only transform the operations of major apparel and footwear companies but redefine the industry's very essence.
The Fashion Act
The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, also known as The Fashion Act, would cover any apparel or footwear company doing business in New York – regardless of where they are headquartered – that has an annual global revenue of $100 million. The Fashion Act would leverage existing voluntary frameworks, with an emphasis on execution versus unnecessary reporting. Voluntary measures from major fashion brands have been insufficient for far too long. The Fashion Act would also provide common sense regulation that would level the playing field for those already trying to do the right thing.
This act currently has 80 cosponsors and broad support of the New York legislature and will advance into the legislative session starting January 2024. If passed, The Fashion Act would leverage New York’s significant market size to advance sustainability standards not just for New York companies, but for any company wishing to sell in the state. This legislation would set an example and make New York a global sustainability leader in fashion.
The FABRIC Act
The Fashioning Accountability and Building Real Institutional Change Act, also known as The FABRIC Act, seeks to create a more responsible fashion industry by pushing for stronger workplace protections and pushing for manufacturing incentives. It would also enhance protections in apparel production by making changes to the Fair Labor Standards Act of 1938. The FABRIC Act would also introduce a nationwide registry for the garment industry through the Department of Labor, which would promote transparency and hold wrongdoers accountable. It would impose new requirements for fashion brands, retailers, and manufacturing partners to become jointly responsible for workplace wage violations and responsible production.
Additionally, the FABRIC Act would establish hourly pay in the garment industry and eliminate piece-rate pay for a minimum wage to ensure dignified work. To boost domestic manufacturing, the Act would introduce a Domestic Garment Manufacturing Support Program, offering grants for equipment, safety improvements, and training to manufacturers. Nonprofits focused on manufacturing workplace development would also be eligible to apply. The FABRIC Act has been officially endorsed by over 275 companies and organizations so far, including Remake, ThredUp, and Mara Hoffman. On September 12, 2023, nearly 80 individuals went to Washington D.C. to speak with 20 different senators about the importance of this legislation and it was reintroduced in Congress.
Fashion Advocacy for Systemic Change
Sustainable fashion advocacy is a call to action for both individuals and groups to create positive change in the fashion industry. Sustainable fashion advocates love fashion and are passionate about sustainability and moral causes, but are often mostly disconnected from the impact of fast fashion. Most have been exposed to the harms of the industry through media, such as through the popular documentary called The True Cost. There has also been a rise in sustainability-related content on social media apps, with Instagram and TikTok as the top tools used to share online information. This has contributed to the emergence of sustainable fashion groups and communities. These advocacy groups often focus on certain issues in the fashion industry and promote certain individual actions to make a positive impact, with sewing, mending, and closet curation as top tips to adopt a more conscious lifestyle. Although these are important actions to bridge any disconnection from our clothing, advocates may not have had firsthand experiences with garment workers, sweatshops, or even textile waste sites. Advocates are often based in the Global North, which can lead to ‘distant empathy’, care from far away that can lead to disconnected and misled advocacy efforts that can perpetuate false beliefs and misconceptions.
One common belief in sustainable fashion communities is that we can buy our way into a more sustainable world, which has created the rise of conscious consumerism, an idea we can become more enlightened and take care of the earth through the way we shop. Although conscious consumerism helps support brands with more ethical and sustainable practices, advocacy work and sustainable products will not bring about systemic change. Yet, fashion advocacy groups play a crucial role by raising awareness about unethical and environmentally damaging practices within the industry. Through various means, such as social media campaigns and educational efforts, fashion advocacy exerts pressure for a better fashion industry. Fast fashion brands are often targeted to be more responsible and to adopt sustainable practices in their production processes. However, most brands are unwilling to change their ways and often resort to greenwashing to ease away from public pressure. H&M has been alleged to have greenwashed efforts through their Conscious collections and textile recycling programs. However, fashion advocacy groups, such as Slow Fashion Movement, a global NGO educating and empowering consumers on slow fashion, have focused on global efforts to rethink conventional fashion systems. Radical imagination and collective power are essential in driving systemic change forward in the industry. It will mean supporting, endorsing, and pushing for fashion legislation, creating grassroots campaigns, and taking on local, national, and global efforts.
Activism in Sustainable Fashion
We need to build power in the fashion industry through effective activism efforts to create systemic change. Despite the progress we have seen, we need to take radical action to achieve a sustainable fashion industry. We can look at history to provide a guiding light forward, such as the 1943 Zoot Suit Riots in Los Angeles offers a lesson in the power of fashion as a form of resistance and cultural expression. The Mexican-American community responded to social challenges by adopting a distinctive style- Zoot suits, oversized coats, and wide-brimmed hats. This fashion statement not only unified the youth but also became a potent cultural identifier, symbolizing resilience and defiance. This historical example underscores the potential for fashion to serve as a unifying force and a means of reclaiming identity in the face of adversity.
The Black Panther Party's resurgence in 1996 serves as another source of inspiration for leveraging fashion as a tool for empowerment and resistance. The iconic looks associated with the movement, including afros, cornrows, bell bottoms, tapered pants, and miniskirts, became symbols of black pride and defiance. By embracing these distinctive styles, the Black Panther Party communicated a powerful message of self-determination and resistance, resonating not only within the black community but also influencing fashion trends. By understanding the transformative potential of fashion, we can work towards creating a more sustainable and socially responsible industry that empowers individuals and communities while challenging systemic issues.
Fighting for a sustainable fashion industry must have an intersectional approach, where we understand we need to work together to build collective power. This calls for coalition building and solidarity across different social issues and movements given the fashion industry is connected to many different sectors. Ethical fashion activism requires grassroots organizing. Grassroots organizing means working with communities to create change from the ground up. It requires building genuine relationships, mobilizing resources, and addressing issues that directly impact your community. You must empower people to take action and create positive change in their own lives and for others. Effective sustainable fashion activism with strong grassroots organizing efforts means doing community organizing. Start community organizing by thinking about how you can bring people together to work on a shared goal after identifying key issues in the industry. The faster we take action as part of a collective, the closer we can get to achieving a sustainable fashion industry.
Community Organizing for Sustainable Fashion
Build a grassroots sustainable fashion movement by taking local action. Organize a protest action or march to grow your group and to take action on issues. These events not only raise awareness of the issues in the fashion industry but also provide a space to connect with like-minded individuals. Recruitment is a crucial step to start community organizing; identify and form leaders within your community who share a commitment to sustainable fashion. Invite them to create a sustainable fashion group and start cultivating a diverse membership base that brings varied perspectives and skills to the table. Try building a cross–class, multi-generational group and establish a dedicated leadership team. From there, channel your collective energy into planning a strategic campaign aimed at influencing decision-makers in the fashion industry. Campaigning will also mean planning for upcoming months to create sustained efforts and strategic initiatives.
Campaigns offer a structured approach to achieving specific goals, whether for sustainable fashion practices, influencing local policies, or pressuring key players in the industry to adopt ethical standards. As your movement gains momentum, consider scaling up your campaign by broadening its scope and impact. It is likely that as you make progress with your campaign, you will continuously refine your strategies, learn from experiences, and adapt your approach to the evolving landscape of sustainable fashion activism. Remember, every small action contributes to the larger narrative of change, and your grassroots movement has the potential to drive significant transformation within the fashion industry. Try promoting teamwork, effective communication, and collaboration for long-term success. Also, consider embracing an intersectional and international approach to activism to recognize the interconnectedness of various social and environmental issues. In building a sustainable fashion movement, you contribute to a larger, global network of individuals and organizations working towards a better world.
Organizing a Sustainable Fashion Protest
Start organizing by planning a local sustainable fashion protest. The first step is to build a dedicated team of organizers who share a common vision. Reach out to like-minded friends, community members, and local organizations that work on sustainability issues. It's crucial to establish relationships with those directly impacted by a cause, centering their voices and experiences. Collaboratively create an action plan to ensure a well-organized and impactful protest with a defined strategy. Consider answering the following essential questions: What are the demonstration's goals? Who has the power to bring about the desired change? What type of action or tactic will make the target audience listen? Choosing goals that resonate the most with your local community and selecting action tactics is critical. Consider various program elements such as speeches, marches, entertainment, or symbolic activities that will effectively convey your message and engage participants. Once you have an idea of what needs to be done, plan the protest meticulously with a clear structure and schedule. Establish an accessible location and time for your protest and take care of logistics, like sound systems, toilets, medical facilities, parking, and signs.
Prioritize safety and prepare for unforeseen circumstances when planning your sustainable fashion protest. Try to anticipate potential challenges and have contingency plans in place. It is highly recommended to stay aware of local legal requirements, and secure permits if necessary. Another pro-tip is to designate peace marshals to handle potential conflicts, and engage with local legal resources if needed. These risks that come from protesting are necessary to carry out the message and purpose your group finds important. Make the risk worth the effort by heavily promoting your protest and outreach through diverse channels, including social media, posters, and personal invitations, aiming for broad community engagement. You can use this opportunity to build solidarity and community, involving a diverse range of individuals in the planning process. After the protest, reflect on the experience and document insights and successes to inform future protests. In the words of civil rights activist DeRay Mckesson, protest is a form of storytelling, using various elements to convey truths, demand justice, and build a collective response. Fashion is worthy of a truly radical storytelling process.
Creating a Grassroots Sustainable Fashion Campaign
Grassroots sustainable fashion campaigns are sustained efforts aimed at achieving specific outcomes, such as promoting sustainable practices in the fashion industry. Unlike random actions, campaigns strategically build group capacity and experience over time. They involve setting specific, defined goals that focus energy on concrete gains, with identifiable targets for change. In the context of sustainable fashion, campaign goals could include encouraging brands to adopt sustainable practices, promoting fair labor standards, or advocating for transparency in the supply chain.
Campaigns utilize a variety of tactics, such as educational events, outreach, and protests, designed to keep sustained pressure on a single target—those who can bring about the desired change in the fashion industry. Unlike one-time protests, campaigns offer specific actions for individuals to take, inspiring continued engagement and understanding of the depth of the problem. By building power throughout the campaign, activists can effectively influence the fashion industry's practices. However, grassroots sustainable fashion campaigns take time to build, recognizing that change is not achieved through one-time actions. Yet, the sustained pressure applied by campaigns forces targets, like fashion brands, to change. Sustainable fashion campaigns must continue to escalate tactics until their goals are achieved. The success of campaigns lies in their ability to build local leadership and capacity, empowering communities to take charge of their initiatives and continue to address other issues. Be warned, only form a sustainable fashion campaign if you are ready to engage with your local community and address issues through collaborative, long-term grassroots action.
There will be resistance to change in the fashion industry. But no matter how great these challenges may be, it also presents opportunities for good grassroots organizing to emerge. It allows us to become catalysts for change and to empower others to do the same. Organizing in the fashion industry also pushes for collaboration, which is the antithesis of fast fashion. By coming together and working together we can approach fashion in a countercultural way. Begin fighting for a sustainable fashion industry through a combination of regulatory frameworks, advocacy campaigns, local grassroots organizing efforts, and industry initiatives. A brighter, more sustainable, and ethical future for fashion is not only desirable but achievable when we come together as a collective.