California's Responsible Textile Recovery Act: A Bold Sustainable Fashion Bill
California recently passed Senate Bill 707 (SB 707), also known as the Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 (the Act). This pioneering legislation is the first in the U.S. to target textile waste through an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) recycling program. Signed into law by Governor Gavin Newsom in September 2024, the Act places responsibility for managing the life cycle of clothing and textile products on manufacturers, aiming to reduce textile waste in landfills significantly. This blog article will explain what California's Responsible Textile Recovery Act legislation means and why it matters.
What Is the Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024?
The Responsible Textile Recovery Act mandates that manufacturers and brands selling textiles in California take an active role in the entire life cycle of their products—from production to disposal. This approach, known as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), is designed to reduce the environmental impacts of textiles by holding producers accountable for the waste their products create.
It was first introduced as The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2023 in February 2023 by Senators Josh Newman, Nancy Skinner, and Scott Wiener. It passed out of the Senate floor on May 31, 2023. The bill proposed the establishment of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for apparel, textiles, and textile items, similar to the already existing Californian Integrated Waste Management Act of 1989. The bill was later amended in 2024 to require a producer of apparel or textiles to form and join a producer responsibility organization (PRO) which must be approved by the department under the requirements of the bill.
It was later ratified in late September 2024 by Gov. Gavin Newsom with the ability to make qualified producers of apparel or textile articles form and join a Producer Responsibility Organization (PRO), an industry-led group approved by California’s Department of Resources Recycling and Recovery (CalRecycle). This will start on July 1, 2026, to ensure that textiles are collected, sorted, repaired, reused, and recycled efficiently across the state.
Why California Is Taking on Textile Waste
According to CalRecycle, in 2021 alone California disposed of 1.2 million tons of textiles. Textile waste is among the fastest-growing contributors to the state’s landfills, representing around 3% of total landfill waste. Given that the U.S. recycled only about 14.7% of all textiles in 2018, it’s clear that textile waste management is an urgent issue. Almost 95% of textiles are recyclable, yet millions of tons end up in landfills each year adding to environmental pollution.
Key Requirements Under the Act
Producer Responsibility Organizations (PROs): By July 1, 2026, qualifying producers must join a PRO, which will develop a comprehensive textile recovery plan. This plan will include accessible collection and recycling systems, such as drop-off points and mail-back programs for used textiles.
Collection and Recycling Plan: The PRO’s plan, due for implementation by July 1, 2030, will cover essential processes to the proper management of textile waste. The PRO is also required to address hazardous chemicals, like PFAS, which are often used in textiles and are banned in California for their harmful environmental and health effects.
Incentive-Based Fees: To fund these programs, each participating producer will pay an “eco-modulated” annual fee. This means that producers using more sustainable practices (e.g., creating easily recyclable products) will pay reduced fees, while those using less sustainable materials will face higher fees, encouraging them to consider the recyclability of their products.
Compliance and Penalties: To ensure compliance, CalRecycle will publish a list of participating and non-compliant producers. Non-compliance can result in significant fines, up to $10,000 to $50,000 for violations.
Who Must Comply?
The Act covers a broad range of products, including clothing, accessories, household textiles (like towels and bedding), and other fabric items. However, small businesses making less than $1 million annually in California and sellers of only secondhand textiles are exempt. In the case of online sales, marketplaces will be required to inform CalRecycle about sellers who meet these thresholds, and they must communicate the Act’s requirements to these sellers.
The Act also defines the "producer" in a tiered system:
Primary responsibility falls on the manufacturer or brand owner.
Secondary responsibility lies with exclusive licensees or importers.
If no producer is identified, the responsibility shifts to distributors or retailers who sell the product in California.
A Milestone for the Slow Fashion Movement
This legislation marks a significant step forward for sustainable fashion advocates and environmentalists. By encouraging producers to take responsibility for textile disposal, California is finally pushing brands to rethink their production processes, reduce waste, and support a circular economy that minimizes environmental harm. This means consumers could see more brands investing in repair, reuse, and recycling initiatives, as they work to meet the Act’s requirements.
Furthermore, the Act directly challenges the fast fashion model by holding companies accountable for textile waste. This move will also encourage consumers to consider the lifecycle of their clothing, potentially slowing down the cycle of disposable fashion in favor of longer-lasting, more sustainable options.
The success of this legislation could inspire other states to take similar action, accelerating the movement toward sustainable fashion and waste reduction across the country. States have time to take action especially when the Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 will be implemented by 2030.
In the words of Governor Newsom, “By 2030, convenient drop-off locations for used textiles across the state will provide everyone with a free and simple way to be part of the solution. California is again at the forefront of innovation, proving we can lead the way in creating a circular and sustainable textile economy that benefits everyone.”
This sustainable fashion legislation represents a hopeful step toward a future where there is a shared responsibility between producer and consumers to tackle textile waste. One where we can further protect our planet, promote a circular fashion system, and build a more ethical and sustainable fashion industry.