The Rise and Fall of Paper Fashion: A Glimpse into Disposable Clothing in the 60s

Paper fashion emerged in the 1960’s as the idea of progress and innovation was embraced by young people with disposable incomes. Fashion turned into two-dimensional shift dresses that were only worn once or twice. They were bought for cheap. Although this paper fashion, also known as disposable fashion, reached its peak around 1966-68, it marked a time where clothing became a gimmick rather than a sustainable alternative to other current modes of clothing. It demonstrates how society adopted a throw-away attitude during a time where disposable cups, plates and tablecloths were first being promoted by major corporations.

The History of Paper Fashion

Paper clothing first emerged in hospitals for both patients and staff since hygienically disposable clothing cut down on laundry costs. But in 1966, companies like Scott Paper Company started producing paper dresses for the masses. Their collections carried the same print as found on their new throwaway products, like cups and tableware. Yet, paper dresses were not as destructible as normal paper goods. They were actually made with Dura-Weave, which is a disposable cellulose material that was invented and patented in 1958! This material was 93% cellulose and 7% nylon and water and fire resistant, which is more protective compared to normal paper products. This is alike material used in the over-sized bibs that we wear at a dentist's office.

Other brands followed Scott Paper Company’s example. In the spring of 1967, Hallmark launched a complete party kit that included a printed A-line shift dress with matching plates, cups, napkins and invitations. As material technology has progressed, paper clothing became made from a mix of wood pulp and synthetic fibers for more durable pieces. This made paper clothing have even more water and fire resistant properties, and made prints more easily placed on them! Some paper pieces could even be washed, but the protective properties would come off in the process. Yet a lot of paper fashion could be “refreshed” by ironing it inside out in a cool setting. This all made parties and events easier to manage since everything could be tossed out in the trash versus having to wash everything.

Fashion Brands and Disposable Paper Clothing

The first company to start paper fashion was actually not a clothing brand, but Scott Paper Company. They created the first paper dress in 1966 as a way to promote and sell their products. Their “Paper Caper” dress came in a paisley bandana design and an op art print, which quickly caught on with the masses. Even Scott Paper Company was surprised by how quickly it caught on, and by the end of the year they had received a half million orders for dresses. But they didn’t make a lot of money from the dresses, and it was also never was the point for them. Scott Paper Company may have left the paper dress industry soon after in 1967 but many other brands followed their popularity and launched their own collections in every style and variety.

Paper dresses soon emerged for every budget and were soon on the shelfs of the biggest stores, which included JCPenney. Paper fashion could even found in upscale boutiques! In June 1966, hosiery company Mars of Asheville launched a paper fashion line under the label Waste Basket Boutique. Their colorfully printed dresses came in different styles and prints……they even sold a variety of “space age” foil paper clothing. Months later, in August 1966, they launched a white dresses with watercolor paint sets so consumers could do their own thing. Andy Warhol even contributed to paper fashion by painting one of their dresses to promote the new line. Interestingly enough, Cambell's Vegetable Soup 'Souper' dress was inspired by Andy Warhol’s 1962 iconic artwork, 'Campbell's Soup Cans'.

Mars of Asheville soon enough became the leading manufacturer of disposable fashion. At the height of their popularity, they were making 80,000 garments each week. This brand even claimed to be the “The Pioneer in Disposable Fashion.” They even had a “Waste Basket Boutique” collection where the care labels stated: “Do not wash. This material is fire resistant unless washed or dry cleaned. Then it becomes dangerously flammable when dry.” Meanwhile, the Campbell Soup Company was able to make the most popular paper garments of its time. In a way, it is almost symbolic how like Warhol’s art elevated ordinary objects to the status of art his involvement and also elevated disposable fashion from its roots in disposability and frivolity to a fresh concept of modernity and innovation.

The Rise and Fall of Paper Fashion: A Reflection on Disposability and Fashion Trends

Buying paper fashion did not mean you were stuck with the design and cut it was sold in. It allowed for creativity since the paper material could easily be modified, despite fabric clothing not being too different from paper. However, the disposability of paper-based clothing marked an acceptance of cheap goods that implied leisure and modernity. Yet it held a dangerous promise of convenience at the expense of resources.

Despite the popularity of paper fashion, it only lasted for a couple of years, and in 1974 it faded it out. Paper clothing is not practical nor comfortable for everyday use. The wave toward the hippie movement--with its back-to-nature values and strong anti-pollution message--also changed public opinion. Times changed and moved what had been modern and innovative back towards its truth, its wastefulness and frivolousness. Women started to move towards dresses that lasted longer than a single wear, especially when paper dresses were prone to creasing and tear. This is despite improvements in material technology that allowed paper clothing to be refreshed by ironing on a cool setting, and be washed once or twice (max).

Photo Credit: Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The Danger of Paper Clothing

Paper fashion holistically impacted our society’s current consumer culture. Paper clothing shouldn't have marked leisure and modernity for its harmful social and environmental impacts. The disposability of clothing hurts earth as seen in the fast fashion industry, where immense waste is created and pollution is created. Fashion is actually responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, and uses large amounts of water. It also encouraged overconsumption of unnecessary goods and normalizing disposability in the fashion industry. Fast fashion very much mimics the capitalization of trends present in paper fashion, which has lead to exploitative overproduction of pieces and the ideal of clothing disposability. It also resembles paper fashion in its ability to represent novelty, liberty and experimentation when at its core this is far from the truth.

Overall, the history of paper fashion shows how society's obsession with disposability and cheap goods had once been viewed as a symbol of leisure and modernity. However, it is important to recognize that disposability in fashion is not sustainable and leads to the wasteful use of resources. The rise and fall of paper fashion is a reflection of the fashion industry's obsession with trends, which often come at the expense of our environment. As consumers, we must recognize our role in shaping the fashion industry by making more conscious choices about what we wear and how often we wear it. By rejecting disposability in fashion, we can make a positive impact on the environment and ensure a more sustainable future for ourselves and generations to come.