Exploring The History and Influence of European Colonists in Textile Dyeing
In 1856, a significant accidental breakthrough occurred when William Henry Perkin stumbled upon a lavender dye produced synthetically from a component of coal tar. This event has been labeled as the demise of natural dyestuffs and the ascent of the synthetic dye industry on a global scale. At present, the economic significance of dyestuffs derived from nature has greatly diminished because of the advancements made in synthetic dye technology. Laboratory-created dyes escape the constraints of nature seasons and the need for extensive processing. Certain dyes, such as indigo, can be manufactured in a lab in its pure chemical form and render colors unadulterated by impurities that often dull dyes from plants. But artisans in various regions of the world now utilize natural dyes in modest quantities, to create unique hues. These dyes offer a distinct character, as no two batches are identical due to subtle variations that arise from the specific impurities inherent to each plant source. In this article, we will explore the history of textile dyeing, how colonists shifted its trajectory and what textile dyeing looks like in our current fashion industry.
The Early History of Textile Dye
The origins of Western dyeing can be traced back to approximately 2000 B.C., with the Swiss Lake Dwellers being attributed as some of the earliest practitioners. However, evidence of dye practices surfaced even earlier in Chinese chronicles, dating before 3000 B.C. In the Middle Kingdom of Egypt, a profound comprehension of natural dyes also prevailed. The Egyptians not only colored textiles but also harnessed mordants derived from metallic salts to enhance the longevity of specific dye shades.
The Phoenician dye enterprise emerged during the 15th century, gaining fame for its production of vibrant purple dyes extracted from a type of shellfish processed within Tyre until 638 A.D. Meanwhile, in India, the dyeing tradition is believed to stretch back to around 2500 B.C. during the Indus Valley civilization.
The practices of Indian dyers would later influence European counterparts in the 16th century, gradually refining European dyeing techniques through a process of trial and error leading up to the 18th century. This was most notable with the experimentation of growing indigo by British settlers in South Carolina, not long after they founded their colony in 1670. They hoped it would be as successful as the sugar plantations of the British Caribbean, and knew Indigo had a ready market in Europe. However, committing to this plant became unfeasible as they were forced to focus on subsistence and surviving in new, uncharted lands.
The History of Textile Dye in the 17th and 18th Century
During the 17th century, the world became more mechanized and machines began to spin and weave fiber. These improvements increased the speed of production and the output of products, which pushed away from slower forms of production, such as hand-made production. And indigo soon became South Carolina’s second best cash crop, at one point in the 1700’s, more than a million pounds of it were harvested, processed and packed for Britain. To visualize this in present-day terms, this would have been worth $40 million dollars. Colonies relied on enslaved labor to make the indigo bonanza possible. African slaves were forced into giant brick vats where the stagnant water and fermenting smell attracted flies and mosquitoes.
The work was incredibly arduous as it required 180 pounds of leaves to make one pound of indigo dye. And, alongside working in undesirable conditions, while being enslaved they were also under constant threat of cholera, yellow fever and malaria. The expansion of South Carolina’s textile dye market therefore relied on the forced labor and immense pain of tens of thousands of people.
By the second quarter of the 18th century, French chemists took a pivotal role in systematically organizing knowledge about textile dyeing. Through their extensive experimentation, they fostered a deeper understanding of the physical and chemical principles underpinning dyeing processes. Theories catalyzed advancements in the French textile industry and inspired dyers across Europe and the United States to incorporate scientific methodologies into their dyeing practices. While colonists relied on traditional, scientific methods of dyeing, forced labor to grow dye crops, and imported some dyes from Europe, American Indians gathered their own coloring material from their local area. But with the emergence of the Industrial Revolution, newfound knowledge and mechanization of clothing production started a steady supply of relatively cheap fabric and clothing in the United States.
Fashion's Transatlantic Influence: The Allure of European Dyes
During the 1800s, Europe stood as the epicenter of the fashion realm, drawing the attention of Americans who sought the latest in fashion colors and the dye substances they produced. Those engaged in the professional dyeing trade within the United States often received training in Europe or were employed by individuals possessing such expertise. Within American-printed dye manuals, dyers exhibited a preference for European-acquired ingredients, although they had to be imported and were expensive to obtain. This was despite high-quality raw material being close at hand, and due to very little knowledgeable American dyeing practitioners.
Yet, the exploitation of the natural resources within the colonies was common from the very arrival of initial settlers. English naturalists meticulously documented their observations of the land and its potential use, while colonial governors dispatched specimens to England for further examination. The 17th and 18th centuries also witnessed a marked increased curiosity among colonists for their surroundings and a distinct yearning for novel sources of cheap raw materials. However, despite these inclinations, the cultivation of dye plants on a commercial scale did not take root in the United States during the 19th century. This was largely because other crops proved more profitable than natural dyestuffs.
Challenges and Innovations in Colonial Dyeing Practices
Prior to the Revolutionary War, the imposition of high import duties increased the cost of dyes, which elevated their overall price. Colonists grew to resent the tariffs and restrictions that were imposed by British rule and began to reject British imports to seek independence any way they could. Even in the aftermath of the war, textile dyers encountered persistent hardships due to high tariffs on imported dyes by Europe. Patriots and loyalist sympathizers started to refuse consuming British imports which included British textiles. They started to spin and dye their own in an act of rebellion. In rural areas, residents found themselves exploring their immediate surroundings in search of dyes for their wool and linen yarns. While records of home dyeing during this era remain limited, it is known that techniques employed were rudimentary and hardly more sophisticated than those outlined in commonplace kitchen recipe books.
Although notable figures such as Thomas Jefferson and Dolley Madison advocated for the utilization of locally cultivated dyestuffs, the farming community did not embrace large-scale cultivation of dye crops. However, following the Revolution, dyers' professions became more advanced through deeper comprehension of chemical processes. Manuals written by dyers and published in the United States between 1797 and 1869 emerged as vital sources of information concerning raw materials. However, these manuals often first originated in England, while some were assembled earlier from English, French and German books without appropriate attribution to their origins.
The Rise of Synthetic Dyes: Mauve's Impact and the End of Natural Dye
Although it could be argued that Perkin's accidental discovery of lavender dye derived from aniline, a byproduct of coal tar, many elements marked the decline of natural dyes. However, the introduction of mauve generated considerable excitement in England and gained popularity in France, eventually becoming a staple in the United States a few years later. Aniline dyeing rapidly became the norm, coexisting with some traditional natural dyes. As the 19th century drew to a close, only a handful of natural dyes, including logwood, indigo, catch, and cochineal, remained unswayed by the proliferation of synthetic dyes.
American dyers mostly relied on Germany for dye, causing their supply to be cut off during World War 1. This “dye famine” forced American chemical manufacturers to a halt and compelled them to pivot back to utilizing natural dyes. During the first quarter of the 20th century, the revival for arts and crafts led to the experimentation of old methods of spinning, weaving and dyeing. Currently, we now see textile craftsmanship turn to natural dyes for color ideas and innovation. Besides that, there are huge perks to turn back to natural dye since it provides unique colors and uses what’s in local communities.
Textile Dye Market in Present Day Fashion
Today, our current fashion industry is marked by fast fashion brands that are rapidly producing cheap, trendy clothing. The constant push of new items uses an incredible amount of resources, which include loads of synthetic dyes. The textile dye industry is expected to reach 11.25 billion dollars by 2026, as it stands it is worth 8.72 billion dollars. Azo dye are the commercially popular colorant for textiles since they provide vivid colors on clothing. However it is extremely environmentally damaging since they end up polluting fresh water sources. In China, more than 70% of the rivers suffer from pollution according to the "River Blue Documentary." This situation results in a significant portion of their 1.4 billion inhabitants being unable to access clean water. Additionally, groundwater contamination has made wells unsuitable for sourcing water for household use. Most of the water used within production is utilized during the dyeing phase, and so the post-production water contains the damaging residual dye, mordants, chemicals, and micro-fibres. The primary culprits behind this dire pollution are Western fast fashion brands that predominantly outsource their manufacturing. However, these brands that contribute to the issue do not directly bear the brunt of its destructive consequences.
In tracing the journey of textile dyeing among European colonists, the discovery of synthetic dyes marked a transformative moment, leading to the gradual decline of natural dyestuffs and the rise of the global synthetic dye industry. While the economic significance of natural dyes has diminished, the allure of their unique hues endures, offering locals an avenue to connect with their nearby environment. The historical tapestry of dyeing techniques stretches back to ancient civilizations and encompasses the influence of cultures like India on European practices. The transatlantic exchange of fashion dyes and trends led to a preference for European dyes in the United States, despite available local resources. This history has shaped our current fashion industry that is having a destructive force on the world. It showcases how we arrived to have fast fashion and what made it possible. Consider buying second-hand the next time you go shopping to reuse what is already in circulation and to reduce our impact, especially in the midst of a climate crisis.