Sustainable Fashion Legislation: France’s Stride Towards “Killing” Fast Fashion
Regulation is imperative for the fast fashion industry to safeguard our planet and the well-being of individuals. Recently, the French National Assembly, the lower house of the French Parliament, unanimously approved a fast fashion “kill bill” that intends to introduce a surcharge on fast fashion items. It would progressively increase, from 5 euros up to 10 euros by 2030, and includes an Article 3 section, which aims to ban the advertisement of fast fashion. This legislation specifically targets fast fashion online retailers, Shein and Temu. Officially titled "Outmoding fast fashion with a bonus-malus system," the official bill (numbered 2129) was brought forward by conservative Les Républicain politician Antoine Vemorel-Marques, supported by the Horizon group. Initially introduced on Tuesday, February 13th, the bill has made notable progress within two months. The rapid proliferation of ultra-fast fashion brands needs to be controlled, particularly the wasteful throwaway consumption model they perpetuate. Shein and Temu, being major online retail brands, have been singled out because of their excessive production and textile waste. Their practices must be scrutinized, especially when 7 euros is the average price per item, calling into question who is paying the price for cheap fashion. In this blog post, we'll delve into the significance of sustainable fashion legislation targeting fast fashion brands, what that means for France, and its impact on the luxury fashion market.
What does the “Outmoding fast fashion with a bonus-malus system” bill mean?
Anticipation is mounting for a French bill positioned as a pathway to “killing” the fast fashion industry. This legislation aims to implement a bonus-malus system for consumers who shop from Shein and Temu. In simple terms, french consumers would pay an extra 5 euros (on top of the price of the product) as a penalty for buying from fast fashion. The hope is that this penalty guides behavior toward sustainable brands and forces an (ecological, financial, and cultural) transition away from fast fashion. On the upside, French consumers will be rewarded when they buy from sustainable fashion brands made in France or Europe, getting a bonus of up to 5 euros on each purchase. The bill is not an additional tax, but rather an extra payment or reward based on shopping choices. Regulating fast fashion in France would mean rewarding sustainable fashion behavior and punishing fast fashion consumers through everyday shopping choices. Supporters of this legislation explain it’s a win-win scenario for sustainable fashion consumers and the well-being of people and the planet. However, it would force fast fashion brands to take accountability for their (dirty and unethical) business practices that they’ve refused to address and remedy in the past.
Fast fashion has been getting away with things for too long, quietly taking advantage of loopholes to avoid responsibility and real action. Despite an anti-waste law adopted in 2020 that reduces waste by adding a 20% fee to products, like cars and phones, it does little for cheap fast fashion. An extra charge of 5 euros per fast fashion item would be a big deal for brands that put out thousands of new products every day. But this fee will not kick in until 2025, starting at 5 euros and going up to 10 euros by 2030, with a maximum charge of half the item’s price. The money raised from charging fees for fast fashion brands' purchases would be used for spreading awareness of the impact of fast fashion. This would also help France's new repair programs for clothes and shoes, and support sustainable clothing brands across the country. The bonus-malus system would also encourage the development of a digital "textile passport" to track clothes throughout the supply chain and measure their environmental impact. This system would provide easy-to-understand and accessible information about each product. Although a digital textile passport system hasn't been put in place yet, this bill would be strengthened by further transparency and information on production methods. Vermorel-Marques suggests that measuring and reporting information on fast fashion items will require a systemic approach on a European level. Yet rather than waiting for this to happen, France has already begun to take national action, influenced by existing European regulations.
Where does this bill originate, and why now?
Proposed by conservative Les Républicains politician Antoine Vemorel-Marques, this legislation aims to transform France's fashion sector. Vemorel-Marques, elected from Roanne, a town with a rich textile heritage in the Loire region, has been representing the 5th constituency of the Loire department in the National Assembly since 2022. Additionally, he has served as a member of the Departmental Council of Loire for the Renaison canton since 2021. With his roots deeply embedded in Roanne's textile industry, Vemorel-Marques possesses firsthand insight into the sector's historical significance to France's economic and cultural identity. In the 1970s, Roanne and the Lyon area thrived in textiles, but from the 1980s to the 1990s, widespread layoffs occurred. France has struggled to compete with China's outsourcing policies, resulting in a decline in its luxury fashion industry. Vemorel-Marques' bill presents an opportunity to reverse the impact of fast fashion by revitalizing local textile production. The legislation would uplift "Made in France", creating local jobs, reinvigorating domestic manufacturing, and re-positioning France as a formidable contender against fast fashion. Ultimately, Vemorel-Marques' vision is to ignite France's local fashion sector, one that champions quality, authenticity, and ethical standards while propelling the nation toward a more prosperous and sustainable future.
As the youngest right-wing deputy, Antoine Vemorel-Marques has also been raised with an awareness of the climate crisis and the need for action. Hailing from a farming family, his upbringing instilled a deep appreciation for nature and environmental sensitivity. Despite his conservative beliefs, he has asserted concern for the planet (which he claims is not contradictory to his political ideology). Historical figures from the right, such as De Gaulle, Pompidou, and Chirac, have contributed to environmental policies, developing ambitious national proposals like the bill at hand. As it stands: French right-wing politicians are the sustainable fashion heroes of our times, the pioneers of transparency and locally-made fashion in the 20th century. The progress of this bonus-malus fashion bill cannot be ignored, despite its ideological roots. The fashion industry creates significant greenhouse gas emissions and introduces excess textile waste every day. Christophe Bechu, the minister for ecological transition, views the passage of this bill as a crucial step in addressing the excesses of fast fashion. And it is a good reminder that France has a lot to lose if they fail to rescue their luxury fashion reputation given the severe competition from fast fashion.
France’s Transition Away from Fast Fashion
The rapid proliferation of fast fashion is concerning due to its large-scale production of low-cost items that quickly fall out of fashion and into landfills. The proposed legislation would harm Shein and Temu the most, renowned for their daily introduction of thousands of new garments. (Shein alone introduces over 7,200 new garments daily.) Additionally, a similar proposal from the Horizons group, founded by Edouard Philippe, has the possibility of being considered in April if the former is not adopted. Failure to enact effective regulations may result in European textile manufacturers struggling to keep pace with fast fashion subcontracting. However, as France advances its legislative agenda, we must question the extent of government involvement in shaping consumer choices and sectors’ progress.
Shein contends that this sustainable fashion bill would adversely affect consumer purchasing power. instead, they have recommended that legislative efforts should encompass all fast fashion brands, not just specific entities. Shein’s pushback highlights the ambiguity of accountability within the fashion industry and the absence of standardized regulations. Yet, Shein’s offensive stance on being targeted underscores the significance of France's emerging stance in establishing a benchmark for accountability within fast fashion. Analyzing the way fast fashion brands respond to increased accountability will be a very telling sign of what it will take to regulate the entire industry effectively in years to come.
France's recent legislative efforts to address fast fashion represent a crucial step in promoting sustainability in the fashion industry. The progress of this fast fashion "kill bill", aka sustainable fashion legislation, reflects France's determination to tackle the environmental and social issues associated with fast fashion retailers, like Shein and Temu. And beyond regulating production and waste, the legislation would help rejuvenate local textile production under the "Made in France" label. As discussions around the bill continue, we must continue to regard consumer behavior, industry responsibility, and government intervention in promoting sustainable fashion practices. Despite facing challenges, France's proactive approach establishes a significant precedent for accountability and sustainability globally. Let’s take notes to also make strong efforts towards localized, traditional craftsmanship, sustainable practices, and ethical consumer choices.