The Intersection Between Sustainable Fashion, Privilege, Classism and Colonialism

Sustainable fashion is attributed as many things with one of them being the act of buying new clothing from sustainable fashion brands. This is done in the name of ethical behavior and care for Earth and its living inhabitants. However, there is much to be discussed about on the scope of how sustainable fashion is defined, what sustainable fashion means on both an individual and collective basis and its role needed in decolonizing the fashion industry to be more inclusive and diverse.

To understand the intersectional nature of sustainable fashion, we need to understand privilege. Privilege means having power over others and accepting that the world isn't equal because of the imbalance found in wealth, job opportunities, healthcare, housing, and protection to just name a few. These systemic issues are closely linked to gender, race, and socioeconomic status and our role in benefiting from exploitation and racism in a developed country. The interconnection is important to understand in the context of understanding of how we as consumers benefit from privilege within the fashion industry. 

Matt Bernstein explained it best when he stated that we can often understand the privilege of others, but not our own. This is because we all know that Kim Kardashian and Donald Trump have it since they have many advantages in the world that others don't. This includes money and power, but privilege is not exclusively for the wealthy. Most people have privilege by the nature of who they are, which includes being white/white-passing, straight, able-bodied, and cisgender. 

This does not mean you haven't struggled because of your identity, but that you have benefited from a society where not all people are treated equally. It is important to note that having privilege does not mean you haven't worked hard enough for what you have in life. This is especially important to highlight within the United States, since the American dream is the promise of succeeding if you have worked long hours in uncomfortable scenarios for a beautiful life with beautiful things in it. Yet this privilege was provided from the unequal systems in place. It was not by luck or work that western consumers have privilege.

Privilege is the result of the sweat and blood of exploited and oppressed humans under inhumane, money-hungry economic trading systems, which are controlled by corporations and politics in the name of democracy.

Privilege within the context of sustainable fashion takes form in the common belief that only a few, wealthy elite can engage in this niche topic. This ideology is based around the sole idea that you can only participate in sustainable fashion by buying into the movement. In layman’s term, consumers have confused buying expensive, ethically made clothing with a good production story as the only way to contribute to the sustainable fashion movement.

By spending money on iconically expensive clothing made with organic fabric in ethical sweatshops, woke-hungry consumers, influencers, and bloggers (accurately) claim that this is not something everyone can afford to do. Low income consumers will never be able to afford $200 dollar jeans from a random sustainable fashion brand when they are struggling to buy food and pay all the bills. 

The privilege of buying clothing from sustainable fashion brands is real.  Only the elite can do so. 

In addition to the limited financial resources, low income individuals don’t have the time to do the needed research to find ethical and sustainable clothing brands. All the while, the resources to get to these brands may be limited as well. 

Yet, it really is disappointing when the conversation usually ends there. This odd gap in the discussion on how the sustainable fashion movement can help bridge privilege is a lost opportunity to stop the oppression and exploitation of garment workers, consumer colonization, and cultural erasure. All this may be because sustainable fashion does not have a set definition, and thus it is up to subjective interpretation how sustainable fashion is engaged upon. 

You cannot shop yourself into sustainability.

Atypical sustainable fashion bloggers love to show the latest, slow fashion pieces and trends. Flashing smiles and cute clothing on social media platforms may be an indication of their ego-centered elitism and classism. Who are influencers targeting their content to when it is understood that most Americans are living from paycheck to paycheck? At the least, it shows a different perspective on how to look at fashion and some understanding of what sustainable fashion can mean. But the sustainable fashion community remains small, and is influenced by white, middle class/wealthy, college educated women with too much time to spare. These invariably leads to loss of a diversity of opinions and backgrounds to be heard and celebrated.

We fail to practice true sustainability when we flaunt organic clothing to a small exclusive group of “woke” followers and fail to see the bigger picture of interconnected systemic issues.

This flaunting has caused more harm than good. Classism is perpetuated when sustainable fashion is limited to the idea that it can only be done by buying new clothing. The few, elite consumers undeniably take advantage of their status to display a “more advanced” sense of morality and ethics, aka nicer, kinder, and overall better human being. This just strengthens their idea of being elite (even if it does happen on a subconscious level) and ever more elevated through social media. Then, couple this with the little information and activists in this field, it effectively perpetuates a one-sided conversation around sustainable fashion.

Also, bear in mind, sustainable fashion brands often gift free clothing to influencers for reviews and blog posts. This further creates a bigger bridge of privilege for the select elite while everyone else struggles to pay for even normal retail priced clothing.

The result is effective colonization of what sustainable fashion means and, also what it looks like. The common aesthetic for sustainable fashion is ill-fitting linen dresses, straw bags, artsy over-sized earrings and European beauty standards. Sustainable fashion brands, often run by White people, are also at fault for perpetuating this. All these factors cause lack of awareness of a truly powerful solution open for everyone to address the rapid consumption and disposal of garments.

Sustainable fashion can be as simple as rewearing your old cardigan.

Instead of confusing sustainable fashion as a strictly capitalistic endeavor, the sustainable fashion movement can and should be a space for community, equality, and the creation of more just and humane world for all. It can provide an avenue to elevate vintage clothing, cherish what’s already in our closet and to draw inspiration from strong women with different faiths, cultures, and races. This angle cannot be seen when media only shows pretty dresses and fails to include alternative solutions or tips to fix systemic issues in the fashion industry.